Together with Chopicalqui, Huascaran Sur and Norte form the Huascaran massif. Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca as well as in whole Peru and consequently quite popular ... More info ›
Together with Chopicalqui, Huascaran Sur and Norte form the Huascaran massif. Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca as well as in whole Peru and consequently quite popular. The south summit is 113 meters higher than its (much less frequented) northern twin. The first ascent to H. Sur took place in 1932 by a German-Austrian expedition, whereas H. Norte is said to be climbed as early as 1908 by Annie Peck, an American schoolmistress.
The normal route to H. South (via Garganta and the NW-face) is rated PD. The crux of the route is climbing the everchanging Garganta icefall to the camp 2 at 5900 meters. The W-face (the shield, D+) can be gained from the ascent to Garganta, too. Moreover there are lots of very hard (TD, ED) lines on the NE and E face of H. Sur.
Day 01: Huaraz - Musho - Base Camp of Huascaran
After breakfast in the hotel we will start at 7:00am approximately, along the Callejon de Huaylas until Mancos, we will be arriving to Musho after 1 hour trip, the Donkey Driver will be waiting for us in Musho to transport our climbing equipment’s to Base Camp of Huascaran 3800m, after hiking up for about 4 or 5 hours we will arriving to the Base Camp and overnight Camping.
Day 02: Base Camp - Camp 1 of Huascaran
After breakfast in the Base Camp we will start hiking up to the moraine camp, sometimes rock climbing for about 3 hours to get the glacier, from here we will start climbing the glacier, to the Camp 1 at 5000m, from here we will have a splendid views different mountains, overnight Camping over the glacier.
Day 03: Camp 1 - Camp 2 of Huascaran
We will start at 4:00am to climb to the Camp 2, for about 6 hours approximately, in case there are other climbers, we will have to pass a fast, this part is avalanche zone, arriving to Camp 2, overnight camping over the glacier at 5950m.
Day 04: Camp 2 - Summit Huascaran 6768 m - Camp 2
After breakfast in the Camp 2, we will start climbing at 3:00am, along the this route we will enjoy the nice views of different mountains ours around and will enjoy the sunrise in the Cordillera Blanca, arriving to the Summit 6768m, around 10:00am, in the summit we will enjoy the white Mountain Range and take pictures, after stay few minutes we will start go down to the Camp 2 for about 4 hours approximately, arriving to the Camp 2 around 3 or 4:00pm, overnight camping at 5950m.
Day 05: Camp 2 - Base Camp
Early in the morning we will start go down to the Base Camp, after go down 2 hours will be arriving to the Moraine Camp, where we will have lunch, after lunch we will continue go down to the Base Camp for about 2 hours more, arriving around 3:00pm, overnight in the Base Camp at 3800m.
Day 06: spare day.
We have included an extra day in our itinerary. This day can be used as an extra summit day, or perhaps as a rest day preceding our climb to Camp One or High Camp.
Day 07: Base Camp - back to Huaraz
After last breakfast in the campsite of Huascaran we will go downhill to Musho for about 3 hours half approximately. Where our private transport will be waiting for us to transport to Huaraz; arriving to Huaraz and transfer to the hotel, overnight in the Hotel in Huaraz.